Botecos: the heart of carioca eating

The boteco, a casual corner bar, is where Rio really eats and drinks. You order an ice cold chopp and a round of petiscos to share, from bolinhos de bacalhau to grilled sausage. Botafogo and the back streets of Ipanema have some of the liveliest, most authentic ones.

Lunch the local way: por kilo

For a great value lunch, find a por kilo restaurant. You build a plate from a buffet and pay by weight, which means you can try feijoada, grilled meats, salads and Brazilian sides all at once. They are everywhere and busiest from noon to 2 PM.

Meat lovers: the churrascaria

For the full Brazilian barbecue experience, a churrascaria rodizio brings endless skewers of grilled meat to your table until you flip your card to red. Picanha is the cut to wait for. It is a splurge, but an essential one for many visitors.

Where to eat by neighborhood

  • Botafogo: the city's best casual and boteco scene
  • Ipanema and Leblon: upscale restaurants and beachfront classics
  • Lapa: late night food around the samba clubs
  • Centro: historic cafes like the grand Confeitaria Colombo
  • Santa Teresa: charming bistros with a view

Let a local guide you

The fastest way into the food scene is a guided food tour. A local host walks you through markets and botecos, orders the right things, and explains what you are eating, often finishing with live samba. It takes the guesswork out of your first night.

Find the best food in Rio

Book a food tour with a local host and eat where cariocas do.

Frequently asked questions

Cariocas eat at botecos (casual bars serving petiscos and cold beer), por kilo buffets where you pay by weight at lunch, and neighborhood churrascarias for grilled meat. Botafogo, Lapa and the side streets of Ipanema have some of the best local spots.

Botafogo has the most exciting casual food and boteco scene, Ipanema and Leblon offer upscale restaurants, Lapa is great for late night eats around the nightlife, and the historic Centro has classic cafes like Confeitaria Colombo.

Yes, especially early in your trip. A food tour takes you to botecos and markets you would not find alone, teaches you how to order, and lets you sample several classics in one evening with a knowledgeable local host.

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